- March 12th, 2011, 11:29 am#308806
+1
Spring-loaded acrylic tip? Yes.. have some:
http://www.gbfans.com/community/viewtop ... 42&t=31992
http://www.gbfans.com/community/viewtop ... 42&t=31992
- March 14th, 2011, 9:20 am#309144
Thanks, Im trying to make it as clean as possible
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- March 30th, 2011, 8:07 am#313220
Big update. This has been done now since the beginning of February, and those of you that have been friends with me on facebook have seen the build up of this. It has come a long way, and still has further to go.... but enough of this lets get to the pics.
-Todd
-Todd
Dougger liked this
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- March 30th, 2011, 9:50 am#313242
Todd, Beautiful work. I feel like I'm a better person from just following your work.
- March 30th, 2011, 10:03 am#313245
Excellant work. Clean and crisp lines from what I can tell in the photos.
- March 30th, 2011, 10:11 am#313247
Thank you guys. This has been a long road. Just so everyone knows, nothing was hand cut. It was all laser cut. Therefore all the lines are as clean as can be.
-Todd
-Todd
My GBfans Feedback: http://www.gbfans.com/community/viewtop ... 32&t=17780
Website: http://www.toddcookdesigns.com
Facebook: www.facebook.com/toddcookdesigns
Website: http://www.toddcookdesigns.com
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- March 30th, 2011, 3:49 pm#313375
Ok first off......I am sorry that I didn't read the whole post. I guess I should not have asked anything. Didn't mean any disrespect or anything AZ. This is however IS an awesome piece of work.
I feel FUNKY!
- March 30th, 2011, 7:06 pm#313456
No worries
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- March 31st, 2011, 9:07 am#313615
This is a quick walk through of how I built my gigameter.
Split in half after seaming then the sides shaved down.
Sides finished with old cap design
Taped together with seam spacer
PVC for ring
Taped off
Ring cut
Bottom boxes finished
Boxes and ring test fitted
Motor and holder
Test fitted motor
Fins and key laser cut and positioned
Also laser cut styrene side panels
2nd cap build because the first was incorrect
Finished cap
All pieces together
-Todd
Split in half after seaming then the sides shaved down.
Sides finished with old cap design
Taped together with seam spacer
PVC for ring
Taped off
Ring cut
Bottom boxes finished
Boxes and ring test fitted
Motor and holder
Test fitted motor
Fins and key laser cut and positioned
Also laser cut styrene side panels
2nd cap build because the first was incorrect
Finished cap
All pieces together
-Todd
Dougger liked this
My GBfans Feedback: http://www.gbfans.com/community/viewtop ... 32&t=17780
Website: http://www.toddcookdesigns.com
Facebook: www.facebook.com/toddcookdesigns
Website: http://www.toddcookdesigns.com
Facebook: www.facebook.com/toddcookdesigns
- March 31st, 2011, 10:18 am#313636
Holy hell, that thing is looking good. Excellent work.
"Yeah, I called her up. She gave me a bunch of crap about me not listening to her or something, I don't know, I really wasn't paying attention..."
-Harry Dunne
-Harry Dunne
- March 31st, 2011, 11:36 am#313656
A thorough build-up of a Giga Meter is something that's been long overdue, good to finally see you're meeting the challenge AZ. Thanks for posting the build-up pics.
- April 1st, 2011, 7:40 pm#314013
Im surprised no one has asked the big question...
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- April 2nd, 2011, 2:11 am#314048
I'll bite how much? And when should we start watching the for sale threads?
Spring-loaded acrylic tip? Yes.. have some:
http://www.gbfans.com/community/viewtop ... 42&t=31992
http://www.gbfans.com/community/viewtop ... 42&t=31992
- April 2nd, 2011, 7:21 am#314068
You're making me want to work on mine...
Jack Doud
http://www.bloody-plastic.com/costumes.html
My Oddball props:
Statue of Liberty Controller, Slime Scoop, Keymaster Colander Helmet, KUD Meter.
http://www.bloody-plastic.com/costumes.html
My Oddball props:
Statue of Liberty Controller, Slime Scoop, Keymaster Colander Helmet, KUD Meter.
- April 2nd, 2011, 8:45 am#314077
Dome lights wired up.
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- April 2nd, 2011, 3:51 pm#314151
great work! are you planning on making the top "display panel" piece removable like on the original prop, or just sticking with the full-on GB2 mode?
- April 3rd, 2011, 9:23 am#314238
Yes the top will be removable.
-Todd
-Todd
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Website: http://www.toddcookdesigns.com
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Website: http://www.toddcookdesigns.com
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- April 29th, 2011, 10:28 am#319788
Project almost complete. The molds are finished.
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- April 29th, 2011, 1:26 pm#319827
Oh, damn you... I recently bought a resin kit of the unmodified Buffer.
Oh well, guess I'll keep at it.
Damn you.
Damn you. Damn you. Damn you.
Oh well, guess I'll keep at it.
Damn you.
Damn you. Damn you. Damn you.
- April 29th, 2011, 1:37 pm#319832
Yeah I saw, on the rpf. That was my old mold. There is an interest list in the for sale section if you are interested.
-Todd
-Todd
My GBfans Feedback: http://www.gbfans.com/community/viewtop ... 32&t=17780
Website: http://www.toddcookdesigns.com
Facebook: www.facebook.com/toddcookdesigns
Website: http://www.toddcookdesigns.com
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- April 30th, 2011, 10:38 pm#320112
From all the phone conversations and challenges this thing has given you, you deserve an award. Proud of you man. Great job!
- June 7th, 2011, 6:30 pm#327509
Care to share what the electronics look like? In particular, how do the dome lights work?
- August 4th, 2011, 8:07 pm#338136
Doing some searching around. First thing I did was make a loop of the scene where Egon uses the Giga for the first time on the NYC streets. Seems to have 4 LEDs for inside the dome in a line. 2 Red, 1 possibly Yellow, and then 1 more Red.
Ah, just saw on the Reference section there's a link to Cyland's page. I'll steal from him so I don't have to print screen, paste, and host a new image.
Cool, also right there showing the Giga in a stationary position.
The LEDs must be blinking at a pretty consistent rate, because they aren't solid when the inner dome is rotating or else it'd just be a solid red line. Seems to be 4 total columns of the LED's. And they look to be set in the inner dome, not a hole in the dome w/ light shining through.
Damn, should've gone through more of Cylands page before typing. Great image of the inner-dome for the G.M.
So likely the design isn't actually LED's per-say. I forget that the props were made in what, 1982, 83? Possibly some light pipe, like optical fiber. Light shining through them from their base inside the dome.
*edit*Ah, gotcha. Went thru whole G.M. page. Thought these were somehow pictures of the actual prop he got to dissect. Turned out its from a prop replica he made. Impressive work.
Ah, just saw on the Reference section there's a link to Cyland's page. I'll steal from him so I don't have to print screen, paste, and host a new image.
Cool, also right there showing the Giga in a stationary position.
The LEDs must be blinking at a pretty consistent rate, because they aren't solid when the inner dome is rotating or else it'd just be a solid red line. Seems to be 4 total columns of the LED's. And they look to be set in the inner dome, not a hole in the dome w/ light shining through.
Damn, should've gone through more of Cylands page before typing. Great image of the inner-dome for the G.M.
So likely the design isn't actually LED's per-say. I forget that the props were made in what, 1982, 83? Possibly some light pipe, like optical fiber. Light shining through them from their base inside the dome.
*edit*Ah, gotcha. Went thru whole G.M. page. Thought these were somehow pictures of the actual prop he got to dissect. Turned out its from a prop replica he made. Impressive work.
- August 5th, 2011, 11:01 am#338236
Regarding the upper microphone attachments. I have a concept I'm daydreaming on based on those microphones having their own individual central pivot point. If they do then they could both be hooked up to a single motor.
I can envision the possiblity of this design, going to see if I can put it into words. The base of those microphones is circular. And they have an outter "wall" so-to-speak that raises up, as shown in this image.
What can be done is drill a small hole through that "wall" and have a metal rod slide through it [insert "that's what she said" joke]. This allows simplistic flexibility with the design, because as the microphone would rotate the exact width between their bases and these holes would get farther apart when the mics separate, and then closer width as the mics return. But since the rods are freely sliding through a hole, and not in a fixated position like a peg or a bolt... then that little differentiation between their width will be inconsequential. These 2 rods will be connected to a T. At the base of the T will be a Linear Actuator, not pictured though.
That is if I can locate a micro linear actuator servo that does a very minimal amount of travel. Found one that does 20mm, but that in inches is 3/4 inch. Don't know if it'd need that much travel to get the Microphone tops to spread as little as they do. Or that might be just how much is needed. I dunno yet.
I decided to just spend the money and bought a Realistic Stereo Microphone #33-1065 for $30. Oh well, can't find them anywhere else, need to get one so I can butcher it for this prop. When I get it in the mail I'll see if this design concept is possible with a quicky mock-up. If it works then I'll start servo shopping.
I can envision the possiblity of this design, going to see if I can put it into words. The base of those microphones is circular. And they have an outter "wall" so-to-speak that raises up, as shown in this image.
What can be done is drill a small hole through that "wall" and have a metal rod slide through it [insert "that's what she said" joke]. This allows simplistic flexibility with the design, because as the microphone would rotate the exact width between their bases and these holes would get farther apart when the mics separate, and then closer width as the mics return. But since the rods are freely sliding through a hole, and not in a fixated position like a peg or a bolt... then that little differentiation between their width will be inconsequential. These 2 rods will be connected to a T. At the base of the T will be a Linear Actuator, not pictured though.
That is if I can locate a micro linear actuator servo that does a very minimal amount of travel. Found one that does 20mm, but that in inches is 3/4 inch. Don't know if it'd need that much travel to get the Microphone tops to spread as little as they do. Or that might be just how much is needed. I dunno yet.
I decided to just spend the money and bought a Realistic Stereo Microphone #33-1065 for $30. Oh well, can't find them anywhere else, need to get one so I can butcher it for this prop. When I get it in the mail I'll see if this design concept is possible with a quicky mock-up. If it works then I'll start servo shopping.
- August 5th, 2011, 11:16 am#338239
Yes mine has only one motor running the microphones. Just some simple gearing had you will have it. http://www.gbfans.com/community/viewtop ... 34&t=11939
look at Cylands drawing and you should be able to figure it out.
-Todd
look at Cylands drawing and you should be able to figure it out.
-Todd
My GBfans Feedback: http://www.gbfans.com/community/viewtop ... 32&t=17780
Website: http://www.toddcookdesigns.com
Facebook: www.facebook.com/toddcookdesigns
Website: http://www.toddcookdesigns.com
Facebook: www.facebook.com/toddcookdesigns
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